Backlane Coffee, Malacca

By Kenny Mah and CK Lim


Coffee lies behind us.

We’ve found a new coffee hideaway in historic Malacca, the birthplace of Malaya (the old name for Malaysia). Tucked away in a back lane between Jonker and Heeren Streets, Backlane Coffee is a secret sanctuary where you can your cuppa far from the madding crowd.

The first thing you’ll notice upon entering the café is the long, white-bricked bar with a dessert display and an espresso machine humming away. A vintage vinyl record player housed in a turquoise “suitcase” plays agreeably nostalgic tunes from the 70s. (“Get up and boogie”, anyone?)

Burlap sacks that once contained coffee beans are now stretched against black piping frames to remind customers Backlane Coffee is one of the rare places in Malacca to serve a decent flat white or short black. Yellow pendant lights dangle from the ceiling (itself a remarkable royal blue). Colourful dishes and cups make for cheerful dishware.

The walls of the café are adorned with antique items such as old-fashioned clocks and yellowed maps. Grab a seat nearest to the large windows facing the back lane; the natural sunlight will enliven your spirits and soothe your nerves. Time slows down here, happily so.

Soon the aroma of freshly brewed coffee will be enticing you; time to order a cup or two. The Backlane Coffee house blend is a gentle mix of Columbia, Java and Sumatra beans. Balanced but not overly full-bodied, this medium-dark roast is perfect for milk coffees such as a cappuccino or piccolo latte.

Fans of latte art ought to be suitably impressed with the delicate designs. Don’t miss the homemade cookie with every cuppa. In lieu of the traditional biscotti, this buttery cookie comes already stamped with the café’s name. Now that’s some delicious branding!

These “better-than-biscotti” bars aren’t the only baked delights available. Backlane Coffee offers freshly baked cakes, pastries and desserts. Their not-too-sweet teh tarik macaron has a subtle hint of coconut. The salted caramel tart is divine: the cream is salted with Ruby Salt and the meringue topping is made with gula Melaka (palm sugar).

If you stay long enough till after sunset – the café keeps rather late hours close to midnight on most days – you will be rewarded with an entirely different ambience as the sultry Malaccan heat is replaced with an evening cool. The café’s lights lend an almost otherworldly glow to the space, and you will be reluctant to leave at the end of the night.

大年初一的雞場街,人來人往的,
我們通過朋友的介紹,在一個不起眼的角落找到了一家新開的咖啡館。
明亮的光線,寬敞的空間,
一小棵銀柳在長檯那透露著些許春的氣息;
而白磚吧檯上的黑膠唱片機緩緩傳來七十年代的老歌,
除了咖啡師外,就只有我們兩個;
比起外頭喧鬧的大街,猶如兩個世界。
喜歡這種氛圍,給人一種舒適自在的感覺。

點了咖啡和甜品, 我拿起相機四處拍照,馬少繼續涂塗寫寫。
咖啡和甜品陸續送來。
這的卡布也許不漂亮,不過味道還不錯,
融合了哥倫比亞,爪哇和蘇門答臘的綜合豆子,口感溫和均衡。
但比起咖啡,我更愛他們的甜品。
和咖啡一起送來的,是印了咖啡館名字的奶油餅,酥脆可口,
咬一口那拉茶馬卡龍,裡頭傳來淡淡的椰香,
而最後送來的鹹焦糖撻里則加了馬六甲椰糖,
這是一個甜蜜的新年。

Backlane Coffee
129 Jalan Hang Jebat, Malacca, Malaysia
www.facebook.com/pages/Backlane-Coffee/574343952693116

Comments

Hmm. I wonder if Malacca is becoming Little Melbourne? (Melbourne’s unlikely to ever become Little Malacca without all the red Dutch-era buildings though, haha.)

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